21.7.13

京都 Kyoto : 祇園祭 Gion Festival

  When you travel or when you have holidays, how many days do you spend in one place. Most of you will stay three or four days in one city. You probably think that one week or let's say seven days to be more precise are enough time to discover it.
  In Kyoto I would argue that you need one year to say you've seen enough. There are hundreds of historical moments and building to visit such temples, shrines, imperial palaces, castles and so on. You can enjoy spectacular landscapes and views each season. Namely you can't miss a beautiful cherry blossoms and vivid autumn leaves. In Kyoto, there are three big festivals and each festival has different styles of parades and costumes. Gion festival is one of them which is held in July. A number of festive events take place throughout one month. The biggest attraction of this festival is "Yamahoko-junko", 32 floats with gorgeous decorations. The materials used to construct their flamework is wood and tied and fixed by straw ropes with no use of nails. Each district spends a few days to build their float. Fortunately, I encountered this event between July 10 to July 12. The float is approximately 25 meters tall.
 














京都 Kyoto : Gion Corner - Introduction to the Japanese traditional art

  Although I repeatedly stated that Kyoto is the Capital of Japanese culture and tradition, I have almost never introduced you any traditional art. In Gion district of Kyoto, there is a traditional theatre that is open to the Japanese common people and foreign tourists called "Gion Corner".
  Here in "Gion Corner",  you can watch a brief introducionary threatre of seven different traditional Japanese plays, dances and musics. For foreigners and most Japanese who are not familiar with traditional theatre plays like myself, this offers the best opportunity to know a little bit of ancient arts.
  The performace last one hour and costs only 3,150 yen per person, which is quite reasonable. To begin with, they show three things simultaneously: tea ceremony and "koto" play and flower arrangement.


This is tea ceremony called "sado (茶道)". A habit of tasting tea started in the 10th century when Buddhist monks introduced it when they returned from China. However, this custom remained among monks in temple and aristocrats at the Imperial court in Kyoto. It was developed into an art form in the 16th century when Sennorikyu, a great tea master established its basic concept of tea ceremony, which we can enjoy now.

"Koto (琴)" is a stringed musical instrument brought to Japan from China, 1,300 years ago and it has a unique sound which is very different from Western instruments.


The third one is the Japanese flower arrangement called "ikebana (生け花)" or "kado (華道)". The origin of this art is related to a custom of giving offerings to deities. Later, it was developed along with tea ceremony. Ikebana was used to decorate a room where tea was served to guests.


 
Gagaku (雅楽) is a traditional dance performance which has the origin from other countries in Asia and developed into an art form in the 10th century. A vivid costume and distinctive mask are very characteristic.



 
 The next one is "kyogen (狂言)", a classic comedy play made by two or three actors. Plots are basically designed to be very simple and funny so that audiences can understand easily even they follow their dialogue. In this story, the mater tried to prevent his servants drinking liquor which he hide somewhere in the house. He tied them with a rope and stick since they repeatedly drink it without his consent. During the performance, servants managed to drink it again even though they are tied up by helping one and the other. In the end of the story, they are caught by the master.



And here comes climax of this theatre, the performance by Geisha.


The last performance are traditional Japanese puppet plays called "bunraku (文楽)". Since its main character is a puppet or puppets, puppeteers who handle puppets wear black costume by covering their entire body. The theatre is played with a dim light so that audience will not be disturbed by catching their eyes with pupeteers. It is like a silent movie and there is usually no dialogue. Therefore, audience read manuscripts beforehand. They normally enjoy the way how puppeteers  maoeuvre skillfully as if the puppet was alive. 
These are the accessories worn by Geisha. They wear different ones in each season.
 
 
 


20.7.13

京都 Kyoto : 茶・一保堂 / Green Tea - Ippodo

Tea is an interesting subject to talk about because it differs greatly in a way to produce and take in each country and region.
In case of Japan, we traditionally consume green tea, the tea streamed and dried right after leaves are picked. Green tea is non-fermented and therefore, it keeps its original color, good effect and power to sustain our health.
The most common way of consuming tea is to influse tea leaves in a couple of minutes in boiling water and extract flavour and aroma. You pour the hot water into a cup. The tea leaves are filtered out and therefore you do not take them. This is same as you drink British tea and other European style tea.
Matcha (抹茶) is unique because it is different in the way to prepare and to be taken. To make matcha, we use tea in the highest quality. Once leaves are steamed and dried, they are ground into power by millstone. Tea power is placed into a bowl and boiled water is poured into. Matcha is the only tea in which you take tea leaves directly.
Matcha has two distinctive types : One is "koicha (濃茶)", which literally means "thick tea". The other is "usucha (薄茶)", which is a ligher tea. If you are interested more, you may take some tea ceremony lessons, an instructor will explain it.
I show you how "Koicha" look like in picture. As you can see in the picture below, it is really thick. It tastes really bitter. I love "double espresso" without sugar and I usually take it after a meal. For even someone who really like bitter taste, "koicha" is a bit too much. So, I do not recommend it for ordinary people. But do not worry. Tea houses for ordinary people serve "usucha" as "matcha".
The next one is "usucha". This is the one that you normally get when you order "matcha".
 
Matcha always comes with a small portion of "Japanese confectionary" like below:
 We, Japanese do not take suger in our tea. Instead, we take sweet like this. Westerners often find Japanese traditional sweets too sweet for them to take. Intead of taking suger in tea, we take a rather sweet confectionary together. It can be said that we, Japanese enjoy a contrast in meal.  In this way, we can appreciate each dish and drink.
This is mochi, a Japanese rice cake made from glutenous rice. In the center, it contains a filling
called "an (餡)" or "anko (餡子)", made from "azuki" red bean paste (小豆餡)with suger. It is covered with soybean power called "kinako (黄粉)".
    I went to a traditonal tea seller's called "ippodo (一保堂)". The shop is in a tradtional Japanese house and it also run a "modern cafeteria" where they serve tea and sweets. The reason why I said "modern" is that customers can enjoy tea at table by sitting on a chair instead of folding their legs on "tatami" floor.
 
一保堂本舗 本店

 京都御所の南北に走る寺町通りに面している本店。 あたりには骨董屋さんや画廊が並び、京都らしさにあふれています。   

住所       :京都市中京区寺町通二条上ル常盤木町52

TEL       075-211-3421

営業時間:午前9時から午後7時(日祝は6時まで) 

店休日   :正月

サイト    http://www.ippodo-tea.co.jp/ 

Next, I introduce you another type of tea called Hojicha. Hojicha is roasted tea, reddish-brown in colour. When you infuse green tea, you first place tea leaves in a pot and then pour hot or boiled water. You wait one minute or so, so that taste and aroma of tea are extracted and stay in water. You must pour the tea into a cup on time, otherwise your tea becomes too bitter to drink.
 In case of hojicha, roasted tea, you do not have to consider this risk. You can pour the tea out into a cup right after you finish pouring water into a pot. And you can use the tea leaves a few times after your first pour.


You enjoy roasted aroma and thick taste.

18.7.13

京都 Kyoto : 天ぷら:天周 / Tempura "Tenshu"

On the second day in Kyoto, I had a dish called "ten-don (天丼)", a bowl of plain steamed rice topped with various tempura such as prawns, sea eels called "anago" in Japanese, and "kakiage", tempura with mixed small pieces of ingredients. I chose the last one, "kakiage (かき揚げ)". The ingredients of kakiage slightly differ in each shop. But it should contain shrimps and seasonal vegetables.
As you can see in the pictures below. The topping is huge. This is one of the best aspects of this shop. The other is that tempura is fried in "sesame oil" instead of "vegetable oil". The sesame oil gives a distinctive aroma and taste to fried ingredients.

Address / 住所 : 京都府京都市東山区祇園四条通縄手東入北側
Phone / 電話 : 075-541-5277
FAX   : 075-561-5709 
Closed / 定休日 : Wednesday 毎週水曜日
Hours / 時間  : 11:00 - 14:00/17:30 - 21:00
Seats/座席数  : 12
Menuお品書き : lunch 1,100 - 1,900 yen, dinner 5,000 yen
Access/アクセス : 四条通りを東へ橋を渡り祇園へ東に進み通りの左側にある。花見小路より手前。
Site/ サイト : http://giontenshu.web.fc2.com/