Trip to Lisbon Part2: Exploring the city

Exploring Lisbon
In the next morning, after breakfast, we (David, Linda and I) decided to explore the city of Lisbon. “ Where are we going today?” Linda asked me.
“Well, we have time…So” I was trying to suggest and then David interrupted, “ We go to watch bullfighting.”
“Yes, we go to Camp Pequeno.” I followed and David and I continued “ Linda, you missed a great thing last night. We should go there again with you.” We already told Linda that we went to Campo Pequeno to watch bullfighting the previous night and we continued to suggest bullfighting every time we discuss next activity. Anyway, we stopped teasing Linda for a while and we headed for the Baixa district. We visited Castelo de Sao Jorge (St Jorge Castle). The castle is located on the hill along the River Tejo. It is one of the best spot to overlook the city of Lisbon. When we got to Rosio Square, we walked up to the Castle. When we were walking along, Linda started to shoot some photos. As my camera started to refuse working, I could take a few photos. David left his camera at the table in his room. So, we were totally dependent on Linda. This time, she brought a bigger camera with a manual zoom lens, the type of a camera that I would never manage. When we got to the castle, David volunteered to queue at a ticketing office while Linda and I looked around some shops nearby. In fact, as a Spanish, he manages conversations with local people better to get more exact information. The view from the castle is magnificent and spectacular. This was my third visit. My last visit was in January 2002. The view was still impressive. From the castle, you can overlook the River Tejo on your left and on your right, you see Lisbon’s red roof building. This could be the best spot to spend a quiet afternoon and let time pass.





“Yasu, what do you suggest for tonight’s activity after we meet Athina?” David asked me.
“I was thinking we all go to a Fado restaurant together. I know one restaurant, which is quite reasonable in price.” I replied.
“Ah, sounds nice.” David agreed. Linda also agreed and she said “By the way, is anyone knows Athina’s mobile phone and what time she arrives? She said we do not have to go to the airport …”. “Well, me no.” David responded.
“ I asked Nuno but he does not know and let me see…” I quickly checked my note and there wasn’t her number. “Neither do I”
“We will see. She knows the address of our apartment.” We continued our tour around the Castle and in the end we got thirsty. So, we decided to drink something. About thirty minutes after our discussion, David’s phone rang and it was Athina. “OK. Athina is now at the airport and waiting her luggage. We will meet her on her way to the apartment.” David said.
“Good. We haven’t had lunch yet. So, why don’t you and Linda to go to meet her on our way back. I will go to Corte Ingles to buy something for preparing lunch at the apartment.” I suggested. I arrived at the apartment first and started to check if I have everything I need for cooking. After a while, Linda and David brought Athina to the apartment. I quickly exchanged greeting with her.
At Newcastle University, I had much less chance to know her than Nuno and Linda. In the beginning of the school year, Nuno and I met her and her Greek friends in an excursion to York. We went out with her group a few times. After I started to party with a Spanish group, a bucket of Sangria!, I went out less with others except ones at the Northterrace. But I remembered her with a red scarf. This trip was a good chance to know her better. Now, we, four of us, all arrived at our Gulbenkian Apartment and we are ready to attend our friend’s wedding, tomorrow. We are very unique group. All four come from different country with different background. I am a Japanese. I met Nuno on the first day in Newcastle. Finding another supporter of Luis Figo (Portuguese football star), we became friends and I became an unofficial residence of Northterrace. Linda comes from Taipei and she was an official resident of Northterrace. She studied Chinese-English translation at our university. David is a current colleague of Nuno. He also works for European Commission. He studied and worked in Madrid before going to Brussels. Our fourth member, Athina is a Greek. Her family live in Athens but she works about 2 hours away from there. Coming to Lisbon, she first went back to Athens and then took a flight to Milan. But the connecting flight to Lisbon delayed there and she finally arrived here now. She said she’s actually from the island of Crete, which she is proud of.
“ Crete is the biggest island in Greek and the most beautiful place!” she said proudly.
As Greece is the only country which I have never been, I wanted her to show me where Crete is in my little European map. I had marked all the places in Europe where I had ever been. People who see it, they are usually impressed how many places I have visited. “Oh, Yasu you have been to so many places ” her first reaction was right.
“Yes, you mostly travelled to Southern Europe: Portugal, Spain, Italy…” David added.
“Yeah, Yasu loves Italy” Linda added her comment
“ But not yet in Greece, you should visit Greece” Athina started say and then “ But there is no Crete in this map!”
“Oh, really, I am very sorry” I apologized to her. The map that I brought is designed by European Rail Network to show rail lines which passengers can travel with a special pass call “Eurail Pass”. As Crete is an island in the Mediterranean Sea without railways(?), this little map does not show
…


-My Euro Map-

-Crete is located below south of this map! Sorry... Athina.-


I prepared chicken with Teriyaki sauce, some salad with oil and vinegar. We had bread and mineral water. We started to fill our stomach and we continued our conversation and plan for this afternoon.
“So, what are we going to do this afternoon? Bullfighting?” David looked at Linda.
“ Good idea.” I added. We are still trying to convinced her “ Well, I think bullfighting is not such an evil thing. Better than McDonald!” I said.
“Why?”
“You see McDonald and other first food giants over-raise cows and bulls. Then they kill them. A lot of meadow and green yard becomes desert. They all over-use wrapping paper. Overuse of paper cause deforestation. In bullfighting, they just follow their tradition and they kill bulls. But not as many as McDonald. I am against McDonald but not bullfighting.” I commented in a little hint of joke.
“I have never heard a discussion about bullfighting comparing McDonald!” David laughed. I actually quit consuming beef since I stayed at an organic daily farm during the period when I wrote dissertation for graduating Newcastle University. I had stayed completely vegetarian for one month. I believe it is possible to obtain enough protein without slaughtering cows. As I said before, a large conventional farming cause deforestation.
“Well we may have to end our discussion here. Otherwise, we spend a whole afternoon discussing bullfighting and McDonald!” David said. We all agreed.

- Picture of us at our Lisbon apartment-


Fado Restaurant
David made a reservation at Dragon do Arfama, a Fado restaurant at eight pm. We spent time in Baixa Alto visiting a church which was half-destroyed by the earthquake in the eighteen’s century. When you visit Portugal, Fado is one of thing you should experience. Fado is a Portuguese traditional song. There are many restaurant which offer Fado performance in Lisbon. In my opinion, Fado is not so spectacular as Framenco in Spain. In Fado, there is no dance performance. Instead, Fado is more poetic and nostalgic. Fado means fate in Portuguese. In Fado, sad and nostalgic stories are written in song. Not many are song with happy endings. Streets in Alfama are narrow and winding. As I went to the restaurant with Nuno and his friends who knew the location, I barely remembered. So, David had to ask locals where is the restaurant. One of a local who is actually a waiter at the other Fado restaurant, said “It is here. My restaurant!” We laughed and ignored him.
After asking several people, we found the restaurant. David told a lady at the restaurant that he reserved a table for four persons. She firstly did not think there was a reservation and then she quickly directed us to a table. A piece of paper on the table said “ Spanish, 4 persons ” instead of his name.
“She did not get my name over the phone and she wrote “Spanish” David confessed.
“Well, if she did not understand David, there is no way for me to make a reservation in my “Portnhol”” I wondered.
We ordered some fish and pork and shared dishes. We had a bottle of Vinho Verde, a tipical Portuguese white wine. During our dinner, four Fadista (Fado singers), men and women made a turn to sing Fado. There are two other tables with customers. During performance, a group of young women come in. They are in their twenties. I thought that younger generations in Portugal do not seem to totally abandon traditional culture such as Fado and Bullfighing. “How many youngsters watch Kabuki in their life? I think almost never…” I wondered. After dinner, on the way back, we passed the restaurant of the waiter who suggested his restaurant.
“Did you find Dragon do Alfama? Now, you enjoy a dinner, here!” he said to David, something like that in Portuguese. We laughed and ignored him again.
“A bloody joke!” I thought.
Except this interruption, we enjoyed a walk till Rosio, the square in the centre and took subway ride to our apartment. “Tomorrow is Nuno’s wedding. We must not forget we are here for his wedding.”


Saturday: The day of wedding
This was the day of Nuno and Lu’s wedding. Nuno told us that it would not be possible for us to leave our formal clothes at the hotel where we will have dinner. So, we decided to put off sightseeing in Sintra till Monday and relax at our apartment before the wedding.
The wedding ceremony was scheduled to start at 16:30. The priests who attend their wedding is Nuno’s uncle. Nuno said that his uncle lives in an African country by following his religious duties and he came back to Lisbon for his nephew’s ceremony. Previously they worked many hours for preparing consents and doing rehearsal.
Nuno told me that it is his family tradition to get married at Igreja de Santa Maria since his parents and other relatives had married there. I found that in Roman Catholic, a wedding is more traditional and formal. They invite family and friends. On the other hand, in Japan few couples get married at temple in a very traditional way. Japanese tend to invite people from workplace and ceremony and dinner take place at the same place. It often becomes drunk or Karaoke party! In Portugal, wedding seems to be considered to be more family matter. Therefore, a few very close friends from workplace are invited. No bosses or secretaries. There is no a VIP table for company executive. So, there is no sign of Mr. Barroso at Nuno’s wedding. He must be excluded with courtesy! When we arrived at Santa Maria church. Nuno and his parents, Claudia and Sergio were already there. As a bridegroom, he was quite busy with greeting friends and relatives. Later, Lu arrived in a top-open French car. She was in a white wedding dress.
The ceremony lasted for one hour or so. Nuno’s uncle led the ceremony, some pray and consents. I have been to messa a few times when I stayed in Italy. I am not very religious (maybe not at all). It is not easy to describe but I feel different when I attend some religious ceremony at Catholic Church. Feeling of refreshing my soul…
The ceremony ended. Both Lu and Nuno read their consents well with no sign of high tension. After the ceremony, we were all led to Tivoli Hotel where we are having a wedding dinner.




The dinner began with a glass of Porto wine and various croquettes such pasteis de Bacalhau. Before the time to seat at a table, I enjoyed a chat with Sergio, Claudia’s boyfriend.
After my last visit in Lisbon, Nuno sent a copy of my mail, my first long writing on holiday overseas, to Sergio and his colleague who I had played football together. “He is a famous man in my office. My colleagues and I read his email. I said to them Yasu is coming to Portugal. They remember him very well.” Sergio said to the other man at the party. My conversation with Sergio usually starts with topic of football. Sergio buys seasonal tickets of Sporting games. He is a Sporting supporter. I would say I am also favour of Sporting. Because players from Sporting make a great difference to Portuguese national team. Namely, Luis Figo (retired), Cristiano Ronaldo (22), Quaresma (23), Nani (20) and Joan Moutinho (21). Currently, Benfica, the opposing club in Lisbon makes less influence in the national team. “I saw a highlight of Under-21 championship. 2-0 against Canada. Great goals by Bruno Gama.” I said Sergio. Bruno Gama is a rising star in a younger national team. He leads the team as a captain. Unlike other young stars whom I previously mentioned, he was trained in FC Porto. “Yes, Bruno Gama, he is a great player.” Sergio agreed. Conversation is normal and fun. The Benfica man who I previously mentioned, had ignored my point in the same topic and that men did not even care his national team.
“Maybe, it is wise for me to go against Benfica…” I thought.
The dinner consists of soup, rice, fish, meat and dessert. It was a lot but manageable volume for us. But what I was surprised was a volume of additional dessert, set in a separate room. After the meal, there was a plate of dessert. However, guests could still take some more dessert placed on a table in the room in the back. There were more than ten different desserts on the table waiting guests to tackle!


During the dinner Nuno and Lu made some speech and visited each table to entertain and thank guests. There was dance time. At the dinner, Lu was in a bright red China dress. I suddenly thought she was so beautiful. Of course, she was beautiful in her wedding dress but was not as impressed as she was in the China dress.
I thought it was good to mix some Chinese tradition in the dinner party. Because the ceremony was completely Catholic and Portuguese. When the bride and bridegroom visited each table, they gave Chinese cigar and a little gift. The dinner ended after twelve. Sergio voluntarily drove us back to our apartment in Lisbon. During and after the wedding, I wondered how Nuno and Lu’s life could be from now onward. Nuno is Portuguese and Lu is from China. They now live in Belgium, far away from their home and less contact to their culture and tradition. “I hope they won’t become Belgian, culturally insignificant people. This is my worry. What would I do if Lu cooks Belgian mussels saying it is her speciality instead of Chinese barbecue rib? What would I do if Nuno suddenly becomes indifferent in football, saying “Cristiano Ronaldo? Who? We don’t talk about him in Belgium! Yasu, you want some snack? Pasteis? No! Here you go, some waffles. It’s good for you! ” I imagined, “How horrifying!” “But one thing is sure, they will be happy together. Happily united. That won’t change.”

Trip to Portugal

Prologue
“ I, Lu, take you, Nuno, to be my husband. To have and to hold from this day forward, In joy and sorrow, In sickness and in health, to love and to cherish all the days of my life.”
I was sitting several rows away from a bride and a bridegroom at a church in Sintra. A couple was making consent of marriage in front of their family and friends in a bright early summer afternoon. Until the moments Lu and Nuno spoke for their consent, I had almost forgotten the purpose of this trip. Along with other friends at Newcastle University, I was invited by Lu and Nuno to attend their wedding ceremony. In last few days there was a full of activity: I went to watch Bullfighting at Camp Pequeno, had dinner at a Fado restaurant and exploring Lisbon with other friends. I felt a little shame for forgetting their wedding ceremony. But to defend myself, when I met them three days before at a department store, they did not look tense at all. Indeed, both of them look relaxed at the ceremony.
From this moment, they are husband and wife. They might have had some difficult periods, especially when they were living in different countries. Nevertheless, they will get over any difficulty together. I felt truly happy for them.


Portugal
This is my fifth visit to Portugal. My relation to my dear friend, Nuno Vicente (as well as my great passion toward das Quinas, Portuguese FANTASTIC national team) has caused to discover this attractive country in the western-most country of Europe. When you look at the Japanese history, Portuguese left their remarkable footprints in the 16th century. They brought rifles and Christianity. The first item became a key element to end civil wars. Christianity spread across the country for a hundred years until it was finally banned by the rulers: Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu. Although the religion was banned and Portuguese merchants were forbidden to enter our country, Portuguese culture left strong footprints in our cultures. When I list things from food and gastronomy, I can name a lot of things. For example,, Tempura, bolos, confeitos, castela (=the origin is pan de lo) and so on.
For Portuguese people, this episode may interest you on the point how the man from the Far East see your country, culture and people (yourself). For other foreign travellers, I hope my writing give some tips to enjoy this wonderful country or draw your interests to consider Portugal for next holiday destination.


The day one: a fearful Benfica man!
On the 5th, on the way to pick up Linda at the Lisbon airport, I finally felt relieved, relieved to get away from a Benfica man. This Portuguese man spoke as a machine gun and unstoppable.
Arriving on Monday, the 2nd, I stayed at a Youth Hostel for three nights. I shared a room with the Bengfica man and a Japanese boy who was visiting Lisbon for university seminars. The man whose name was not common enough to be memorised but he sells laboratory tools to companies and organizations to make a living. He said he is from the central region of Portugal and stays in Lisbon a couple of weeks.
“These tools are made in China. China is the future! And tell me some words in Chinese!” he asked another Japanese roommate who did not even learn Chinese at his university. Then he started to tell me how great Benfica is. Benfica is one of three major football clubs in Portugal. “Yeah, Benfica is the greatest club in the world. Do you know Benfica has the most subscribed members in the world, more than Barcelona! Benfica is the first club that made a tour to China.” he claimed. “Sounds ridiculous. I certainly doubt many Chinese still remember Benfica.” I thought.
“But the majority of young Portuguese stars are from Sporting, no? Cristiano Ronaldo, Quaresma, Joan Moutinho, Nani. And even Benfica captain Simon Sabrosa is from Sporting. Nowadays, Benfica does not produce any possible star players.” I launched a counterargument. Sporting is another club in Lisbon and it has a great reputation of training young players and it is a rival of Benfica. Bascially both club supporters hate each other.
“No, Simon plays in Benfica. Do you know Jose Mourinho first coached Benfica? In a football team, a coach is important. Star players think they are the most important. Not true! A coach is the boss! Players just have to follow coach’s orders!” he just ignored my point of argument. He started to introduce “disciplined football” and he even think Fabio Capello is a great coach. I quickly realized that the man is not capable of making a rational discussion and obsessed with his favourite team of Benfica. I now remembered Nuno saying Benfica is a horrible team and educated men support Sporting. At that time, I thought he said so because Benfica is a rival of his team. “ Well, maybe Nuno is right.” I thought. I remembered my last visit to Portugal: I went to watch a football game of Portugal vs Russia with him, his sister Claudia and her boyfriend Sergio. We enjoyed the match and it was a great victory with 7 goals. Sergio is an enthusiastic Sporting supporter. He talks about Sporting proudly and on the other hand, he also has a good knowledge of wine and olive oils. He is balanced. Not like this mad Benfica man. A good guide for the taste of Portugal. Probably more than Nuno Vicente. When I say good things about Portuguese National team or players, Sergio seems to be pleased. However, this guy, the Benfica man does not give any reaction whatsoever when I say how great his national team is or Portuguese stars are. Instead, he starts to produce another praisal to his beloved club of Benfica!
“Well, this guy is definitely obsessed with his team and his business. He does not have any space for other people to intervene. How possible! This guy speaks without pose. No space for others to interact. ”



Portuguese food/ Comida portuguesa
Finally, I managed to escape from his unstoppable talk and went out from the hostel to the outside world. In early July, the sun has already strong in Lisbon. I saw pedestrians trying to find shade on streets. However, the temperature did not seem to be so hot. In this period, it is absolutely boiling with high humidity in Japan. I rather felt warm and comfortable. Lisbon did not look changed since I was here three years ago. Walking down the Avenida Liberdade toward the river, I reached Baixa, the centre of Lisbon. “ Maybe this guy has become much popular. This could be a significant change in Portugal” I thought looking at an advertisement of Banco Spirit Santo. The ad says: “We do as Cristiano Ronaldo does. Investing money into our bank is as you pass a ball to who knows how to handle it well”
“Well, Ronaldo has become one of the best footballer in the world. The Bank Spirit Santo is just a leading bank in Portugal. It is not even a main bank in Europe. Definitely the ad is exaggerated”





In a department store in Baxia, I quickly did some shopping and tried to find some place to eat.
In Portugal, restaurants usually have several choices of recommended dishes called Menu del Dia: today’s special. Prices are normally reasonable for lunch. Like other countries in Europe, people become busy at work and have less time and tend to eat quickly. Although it is not so significant as in Japan or UK, first food certainly affected younger generations here in Portugal too. I suppose traditional restaurants seem to put reasonable price for lunch around 10 Euros for main menu in order to keep customers coming in. I had Pataniscas de Bacalhau (9.45 euros) with mineral water and a cup of coffee. The total was about 11 euros. That was not expensive for lunch.


-Grilled octopus-
But I noticed that other customers in the restaurant were mostly well-dressed: Business men and women, elder couples. No younger generations in casual clothes. On my right, there seems to be a group of university students. But men are in suit and women are well-dressed too. The lunch can be a special occasion after big examinations for example. I suppose, younger generation in Portugal as well have some quick lunch such as hamburgers. There is an unanswered question about Portuguese food in my last visits: What is a significant difference in food and eating customs between Portuguese and Spanish? I had already known that Portuguese eat cod (bacalhau) regularly. If you go to a Portuguese restaurant, you will find four or five different cod dishes. But you can also find dried cod in every city in Spain. They also eat cod. Probably the difference would be how regularly Portuguese eat cod. When you walk down streets in Portugal, you will find a shop where they only sell cod. It is called Bacalheria. In fact, it is said that there are countless cod dishes in Portuguese cooking.



- Bacalhaoaria (Cod shop) -

Here are some examples:

Pataniscas de bacalhau: Dried cod fritter

Bacalhau a Bras: Maybe a picture does not tell what exactly this dish is. Flaked cod and shredded potato is fried and then mixed with sauted onion. This mixture is once well heated then beaten egg is poured and stirred gently to become consistent.


-someone could not wait.....-


Pasteis de Bacalhau: Cod croquette: shredded cod flake is mixed with mashed potato and sauted onion. The mixture becomes consistent and then fried in oil. No coating of bread crumb. (Please somebody, introduce a picture!) You will find it almost all snack bars in Portugal and this is actually my favourite.

The Second difference would be that Portuguese have soup for a meal more often than Spanish. When you go to a restaurant area in a shopping centre, at least one of the first food stand mainly serves soup. It is popular to have a bowl of soup as main dish with some bread and drink instead of hamburger among Portuguese. Those soups served as a main dish in Portuguese cooking are rather dense and consistent compared to Japanese miso soup which is merely a side dish. The next one that I introduce can be a significant difference between Portuguese and Spanish. This difference is not about food itself but it is related to their eating habits and customs. Frankly speaking, it is not easy to point out differences in food itself. Not like differnces between French and German, or French and Italian. Both Portuguese and Spanish use olive oil and garlic in most dishes. They eat various seafood as well as meat as a main dish. Both eat rice as well. So, what is the difference? Well, Spanish has a habit to take some snack between meals. I used a word, “Snack” as there is no word in English equivalent to this habit; having tapas. Probably it can be an insult for Spanish to use the word, snack because for them it is more than a mere snack. When you go to any place in Spain, you will find a snack bar or restaurant that serves tapas. Tapas is a small portion of dish served at these places. Spanish go to these places in mid afternoon or early evening before main meal. Tapas is not a particular dish. It can be calamaros fritos (squid fritters), Tortilla de patatas (potato omelette), jamon (cured ham) or chorizos(sausage). There are only a few pieces in each plate. If you go with your friend, you order bigger one but you take a piece or two. Sometimes Spanish people go to eat tapas instead of having dinner at home. So, it could be a meal too. But they go to one bar to take a glass of wine or beer and two or three types of Tapas and then go to another. Then to another. When they go out to eat tapas, they go around several Tapas bars. In this trip, I finally realized that there is no tapas bar in Lisbon. There can be some just to attract Spanish tourists but at least I could not find any. And then I remember what Nuno said:“I don’t like tapas. It never fills my stomach.” And when I was in Barcelona, he visited me just one day and we went out after dinner. We had some tea at a bar. “Look , Yasu” he said pointing with his finger at sausages sunk in a POOLl of oil which set on a bar counter “This is also the reason I hate tapas. This oily sausage! Horrible.” Actually, some dishes in Tapas are served in this way and there are many deep-dried dishes that contain a lot of oil. In many cases, paper under food has not absorbed extra oils which food remains greasy. This also the reason for Nuno to oppose this Spanish custom. I remembered I laughed a lot because the way he addressed the issue in discussion. No insult but funny way.　
　To sum up, Portuguese food is similar to Spanish food. Especially ingredients and how they prepared dishes. However, there are some differences in what they prefer. Portuguese take soup and cod more often than Spanish. More obvious difference can be that Portuguese do not have a custom to have tapas.

Now, I want to leave previous discussion and pick up a particular item: cheese. When I was little, I only knew two types of cheese. One is “Sliced cheese” which is used for filling for simple sandwich. The other is “Powder cheese”. Both are horrible example of “Processed cheese” introduced by Americans. I call it “Americans’ SIN”
In Europe, various types of cheese exist. Nowadays, some of them are imported to Japan. I can find some in grocery stores in the city centre in Fukuoka. However Spanish cheese is very rarely sold. In case of Portuguese cheese, we, Japanese probably never import them. All I can find from Portugal is Vinho Porto (Porto wine). So, here I would like to introduce some of Portuguese cheese.

Quejo Picante da Beira Baixa
One of Portuguese cheese denominated DOP. Made from mixed unpesticide milk of sheep and goat. Strong and salty. Excellent in taste. Only problem is wrapping: You should take extra care to remove this aluminium wrapping (See picture). If any little piece remains, you can imagine how terrible you feel when you bite.



Reference: http://www.beiralacte.com/queijo2.htm

Quejo Serra da Estrela
This type of cheese is also found in Spain but in Portugal, it is widely eaten throughout the country. It is also named “quejo amanteigado (buttery cheese)”. As you can see in the picture, the interior is fluid and creamy. It should be eaten in a few days after cutting. Otherwise, the interior creamy part flow out and spread its smell all across a fridge! Be careful!


Reference: http://www.saogiao.com/


In the second evening, Nuno invited me to his house for dinner. Nuno’s family live in the suburb, 30 minutes by train. It is called Massama. I met Nuno’s family and Sergio, a boyfriend of Claudia again after 3 years. We spent roughly two hours for dinner and my stomach enlarged by a regular portion of Portuguese meal. Ready for wedding dinner!


Linda’s arrival and the Gulbenkian apartment
Day 4 was not really productive for me. I just spent time figuring out how to get around: how to get to Sintra for Nuno’s wedding on Saturday afternoon, Tomar and master the transport in Lisbon. I told Sergio and Nuno that I would visit “Great” Sporting museum (Lisbon’s football club). But when I arrived there it was almost time to close. However, we decided to our first activity together when Linda and David arrives on the following day: Bullfighting. In the end of my discussion with Nuno, we agreed to exclude Linda for this event. “Yasu, why don’t you go to watch bullfighting tomorrow night with David? The Bullfighting stadium is very close to your apartment. It was recently renovated and it became quite popular. I ‘m sure David also likes it.” “Well, what about Linda? I don’t think she likes it.” I said.
“You don’t have to tell her where you are going.” Nuno answered.
“I actually suggest it once. She said she is an animal lover. She cannot stand watching such a cruel show like that.”
“You did suggested it to her. Well, Yasu, we do not kill bulls in bullfighting in Portugal.” “Yes, not in front of audiences. But bulls are slaughtered and sent to a butcher’s, no?” I knew that Nuno is playing with words. So, tried my knowledge about bullfighting.
“Ha Ha Ha, you knew it.” Nuno confessed and continued, “But you don’t have to tell Linda. You and David say to take her to watching something interesting.”
“I guess she won’t pay for watching it”
“Ok, the girl will be very tired and maybe she needs some sleep. You can keep it as a secret.”
We agreed on the condition and according to him, David also said “Yes” for watching it.

On the 5th of July, after breakfast, I packed everything to check out the Youth Hotels. I said good luck to a Japanese room mate for his trip and being with thehorrible Benfica man for a few more days. The Lisbon Airport is located very close to the city centre compared to other cities in Europe. It takes only 15 minutes by bus. It is also very small. I had to take a connection flight in Amsterdam and in case of Linda, the transfer was at the London Heathrow. It took her about 40 minutes to get through the custom and baggage claim. Our meeting is since she made her trip to Kyoto. It was one year and several months ago. Her luggage was lighter and fewer. I regret choosing my old and half-broken suitcase. Her suitcase is smarter and of course, wheels seem to work properly. In my case, as I did not have time to think about packing and luggage, I realized both suitcase had broken wheels which force me to drag it hard to go around. Well if you carry around 25 to 30 kg without using taxi to accommodation, your suitcase wheels surely wear out, anyway.
After exchanging hellos, she said “I did not sleep well. On the flight to London, a baby next to my seat, cried almost all night and then I was with drunk English group shouting and chanting all the way from London to here…
”
We took a bus to our accommodation. We rented an apartment in the area little bit away from the city centre, in the area called Gulbenkian. Linda and I had discussed about accommodation about two months before this trip. Originally, she said she would bring her female friend together. So, I chose two bed room flat but after one month, she sent me an email notifying her friend could not come.
“What exactly happened to your friend? The one who was supposed to come with you?” I asked.
“Her father did not allow her to come to Europe. She said to him she wanted to go to Lisbon. And he thought it was Brisbane, a city in Australia and said ok once. When he knew its exact location, he said no to her daughter.” “Geographic knowledge in elder generation is fantastic!” I thought. I remembered my relatives who went to Austria. They did not realize that they actually went to a German speaking country instead of an English speaking country: Australia. Until I told them, they thought they were hearing English around on their trip.


When we arrived at the apartment, it was not ready yet. The guy welcomed us named Pedro, very common name in Portugal. He quickly showed us facility in the apartment. He said he is a boyfriend of Dona Andrea, the owner of this rented apartment. He apologized for her absence and said he will collect rent on behalf. He was not absolutely certain how much is the rest of our payment. He trusted my calculation. What I like about this type of accommodation is friendliness. If we follow the rental condition strictly, we have to deposit some amount in case of any damage caused by tenants. But he said ok without it. If you stay in a five-star hotel, you will be addressed sir or madam. But you rarely experience hearty and personalized service. We also liked room, kitchen and furniture. Very lovely and maintained very well. Another reason for choosing this type of accommodation is that I can experience a real life, such as preparing breakfast and dinner, going grocery shopping and washing dishes and cloth, watching TV on a sofa. The life like the Northterrace apartment at Newcastle University. Leaving Pedro for his work, we went out to have some lunch and collect my stuff at Youth Hostel. After lunch we went back to the time when Pedro suggested. Before going to do grocery shopping for next day’s breakfast, I said to Linda I would go alone as she may be very tired.
“ No, I will come. I also want to buy something myself, a supermarket is close, no? “ she said.
“Yes, it is not far.” I answered. But she found it was not so close on her way to the supermarket. Actually, I meant the supermarket nearby was 15 minutes walk. It is El Corte Ingles. And her idea of “closeness” is a corner shop on the same street.
“Yasu, you said it is close. We are walking more than 5 minutes.” She said.
“Well, it is just down there. You see that big building. It is El Corte Ingles.” I answered by pointing the building which was just emerging in our eye sight “My idea of walking distance is far from her standard?????” I wondered it. After buying favourite cheese in Portugal and other ingredients, I finally released Linda to take a nap. To make my confession, I feel like a child who goes crazy at an amusement park when I go to a grocery store like the one in El Corte Ingles. There are hundreds of products that I want to taste: Jamon Iberico, chorizos, various types of cheese, goat milk and yoghurt, Sicilian blood orange. Countless! In my last visit to Lisbon, he had asked me what I would do during the day while he was working. I told him I would be happy if he drops me off in front of El Corte Ingles in the morning and collect me before going home. He laughed.

Our apartment:



Bullfighting Night
On the previous day, Nuno told me that he would bring David to our apartment around at 7 p.m. but David phoned him that his flight would delay. So, Nuno and Lu arrived our apartment to greet Linda whom they have not seen since they left Newcastle in December 2002. David arrived around 8.30 to 9.00 at our apartment. We exchanged hellos. David and I told Linda that we have a secret mission tonight without knowing her that it is bullfighting and left her saying good night. On the way and during bullfighting, he volunteered to be my Spanish teacher and we spoke in Spain. I wondered if my Spanish made sense to him but communication was possible.
Talking about bullfighting, I would believe few foreign tourists know or actually experience it in Portugal. Probably many of them had not known there is bullfighting held there before their arrival.
In Portugal, bulls are not killed in front of audience. It is not because some people do not want to see a brutal moment but to avoid possible fatal risk for bullfighters. Some people might say that it is the most exciting moment of bullfighting to put a sword into a bull’s back through the heart. But if a bullfighter missed the point to put the sword, he would have a great risk. If a bull still has energy to fight, a bullfighter can be knocked down to the ground easily. In Spain, a protagonista is the one who put a sword into the back of a bull. It is called “Matador”. It comes from a verb: matar (to kill). Instead of having a Matador, there is a Cavariero / knight in Portugal. A cavariero shows up on a horse and tries to show his wonderful riding skills as well as skill to put spears into the back of a bull. One of the cavariero who we saw is just nineteen years old. But he showed us a wonderful riding skill to avoid a bull’s attack and pierced his spears into its back. The crowd applaud and gave him a lot of claps.

-the nineteen-year old cavariero making a fantastic performance-





The second stage of Portuguese style of bullfighting is a group of forcados fight against a bull. The group of forcados line up in front of the bull. A boss in the group approach one step and another to show its braveness. But unfortunately, he usually is flown into the air and his face got wet with blood. The other forcados try to stop the bull charging against them. When they stop the bull, the show will end.




In the final stage, a matador fight against the bull. Once the bull looks defeated, the show ends. There is no final ritual to kill the bull.


David and I enjoyed this spectacular show together. We noticed that there are many younger Portuguese in the stadium. The stadium was almost full. When I went to watch bullfighting in Spain, the majority of audience were the elderly or the middle aged. Almost no younger people. We went home with a full of satisfaction. We have a lot of events to follow: Dinner at Fado restaurant, Festivals and not to forget, Nuno’s wedding!
(to be continued)

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