24.12.11

Trip to Kyoto


On 20 November, I took a bullet train to Kyoto which goes over 250km/h. Smooth and fast.
I heard that there is a plan to connect Madrid to Portugal by AVE, Spanish bullet train. I wonder if I can take it near future. (I don't want to take a Targo. It was a tiring experience...)
The purpose of this trip is to sit for a Portuguese examination (in level B1) which is run by the Faculty of Literature at the Lisbon University.




I went to this Tempura restaurant with Nuno last summer. This time, a queue was much longer. The chef was very busy with preparing Tempura. Even though there were an incredible long queue, he prepared tempura for all those who lined up till 14:00. It is really a good service.


It is called "Tendon", deep-fried battered eel placed over a bowl of rice and seasoned with a soy-based light-flavoured sauce. There are two regional styles of Tempura: Kansai (Osaka) and Kanto (Tokyo). In the Tokyo style seafood and vegetables are fried in sesami oil which gives a distinct flavour. Tempura is golden yellow. The picture is Tokyo style Tempura.



The man on bicycle is a cook who is delivering a meal to customers such as "Geiko" or "Geisha", traditional Japanese performers who play an instrument and show a traditional dance - the people who do not have time to go out for lunch.


The season for crabs has just started.


Saba-zushi
This fish with a shiny sliver and blue skin is called saba in Japanese. It is called mackerel in English, caballa in Spanish and cavala in Portuguese.
Fish is prepared in fillets, by cutting off the parts which contains bones and marinaded in vinegar which sweeten with sugar. Consequently, smells of raw fish is removed. This type of fish prepared differently from white meat fish like red sea bream or reddish tuna which served completely raw. No horse radish is attached.


This is "Nigiri-zushi", the most well-known type of sushi around the world. Please excuse me if I make any mistakes. From the left, sea bass (suzuki), tuna (akami), amberjack (kanpachi), prawn, squid, octopus, egg and salmon roe (ikura).
Sushi is not served hot as you know but it should not be served cold, either. What I want to say is to be prepared after ordered so that it can be nice in body temperature. When it gets cold, rice sticks together. So, if you want to taste delicious sushi, you should go to a small family-run sushi restaurant like I did.


On the way to have lunch, I luckily encountered "Maiko". They are trained performer who play traditional musical instruments and perform dance called "nihon-buyo". I have not read an English novel called "geisha". Hearing about the images which some foreign tourists told, maiko or geisha were mistakenly known as a misterious prostitute. I believe it was enhanced by fiticious images created by silly novelists. Many of them start their training from the age of 16. They spend a number of years to become a professional performer like the ones in the picture.
Last summer, I and Mr. Vicente met young Maiko trainees at Starbucks. He had a picture with one of them, the prettiest one, I would say. (I am a bit worried if he received any Kanfu kick from his wife later... To defend him, I should say that I was the one who chose her consequently. Because I met her eyes when I asked for photos. Since I met with her eyes, she responded "with me?". I could not say "with all". It's not polite to say so.) By the way, Nuno commented that she was not so friendly apart from being coutesious. Maybe I should explain to you about our culture and etiquette that the Japanese women should have traditionally. They are usually expected to show minimum facial expressions. For those who becomes Maiko in future, it is a must. Until very recently, quiet and less emotional women were admired greatly. They are considered to be more sophisticated in such manner. So, you can not expect Maiko to be lively and talkative. However, they are trained to be very knowledgeable and capable to show true Japanese etiquettes. Next time, I want to go to a traditional "Kaiseki" restaurant with some foreign friends to enjoy Maiko performance. (Unfortunately, Mr. Vicent often resist to dress formally. Last summer, he did not bring anything a bit formal...) I also didn't have enough knowledge as well.

This traditional Japanese house offers green tea and sweet.


When you go inside, you find a typical Japanese room with tatami mat floor, where you must take off your shoes. There are a number of places like this, which are not used for a small cafeteria or restaurant. But you can almost only find them in Kyoto.

On the right, there is a bowl of green tea called "macha". Macha is a high quality tea. Tea leaves are ground into powder. To serve macha, the fine powder is placed into a bowl directly and then hot water is poured over them. Then, it is whisked with a bamboo scoop in a way that you beat eggs or whipped cream to make sweet. In macha, you consume tea in powder directly. It is bitter. So, it is accompanied with some sweet on the right.

This is another traditional Japanese house which is converted into a restaurant. I have been to this restaurant with a Portuguese friend for dinner last summer. We enjoyed the atmosphere of the building and meal.


This time, I went for lunch.
This restaurante served grilled barbecue chicken. In Japanese, it is called "yakitori". I had a bowl of rice topped with different types of barbecued chicken and eggs.

11.9.10

A day trip to Nara (奈良)

On the day fourth, we made a day trip to Nara which is the other ancient capital of Japan. Nara (including Asuka area) is the first capital (592-793). Between 594 and 694, the capital was placed in the area called “Asuka”, therefore it is named as “Asuka Era(飛鳥時代)”. The most distinctive figure in this period is “Shoutoku Taishi” who assisted an empress to govern the country. He sent a missionary to China to learn techniques, religions etc and established a central government and constitution. In order to introduce Buddhism to the country, he ordered to construct the temple called “Horyu-ji(法隆寺)”.
This temple is considered as the oldest wooden architecture which remains at present time. We visited this temple.




The other place that we visited is “Todai-ji(東大寺)” From 710 to 694, the capital was placed in Nara. This temple is the most famous temple of this era. A huge Buddha sits inside the main hall.




You may need to spend two days at least to see major historical buildings and tourist attraction. However, if you have a limited time to stay in Japan, it is better to spend more days in Kyoto. If you stay in Nara, you may not be fascinated by food and atmosphere of restaurants as much as you may be in Kyoto. I took my friend, Nuno to eat out for lunch and dinner for three days but it was not enough to let him taste major traditional dishes in Kyoto.

We met lovely animals in front of Todai-ji Temple



"It is lovely, isn't it."

"But it can do these four skills of wrestling: bite, kick, butt and knock you down! ""

Place to eat in Kyoto

The area Recommended
"Gion(祇園)"
The best place to eat should be "Gion(祇園)". Many of the restaurants I have shown in this blog in Guion. There are authentic Japanese restaurants.
Sushi: 寿司- "Emon えもん"
Tempura: てんぷら- "Tenshu 天周"
Eel: うなぎ - "Uokeyaう桶や"
Some other places which I considered to go are:
Yakitori: 焼き鳥 - Korekido 古暦堂
Hachidaime Gihei 米料亭 八代目儀兵衛 - the Japanese footballer Nakata visited.
Next time when I go there, I will explore more.

The Japanese food and drink that Nuno and I had this time:
Sushi (寿司), Tempura (てんぷら), Grilled Eel (鰻の蒲焼), Yakitori (焼き鳥), Shoba (蕎麦), Sake (酒), Sashimi (刺身)

Food he missed
Nabe (鍋), Shabushabu (しゃぶしゃぶ), Kaiseki Ryori (懐石料理), Fugu chiri (河豚ちり鍋), Japanese Traditional Sweets (京菓子), Koube Beef steak (神戸牛), Shukiyaki (すき焼き)

There are many way to cook Nabe. Kaiseiki Ryori is one of the thing that you must taste once in your life time. Please bring more formal or modest clothes next time, Nuno. I have just found a reasonable but excellent place. There are still a lot to see and experience in Kyoto and around the city. I assure you and all my friends that other is no other place which can satisfy tourists in terms of history, culture, food and shopping as much as Kyoto. Kyoto is like Paris where many people want to visit over and over again. Because you won't see it enough in a short time.

Place to stay in Kyoto

Once I was trapped in a "Guest House" which was recommended by "Lonely Planet". It was not properly equipped for accommodation. For budget foreign travellers, my suggestion is to stay at "Utano Youth Hostel" where non members can also stay. Newly renovated and equipped for all you need to stay. If you are in a group of more than two, you do not necessarily stay in a domitory. You can have your own room. Of course, you need to use a common washing basin and a common shower for everyone else.
There is a kitchen to make own breakfast. For those from Italy, Spain or Portugal, I strongly recommend you should bring a cafetera for coffee. Otherwise, you have to find "Starbucks" shops. In Japan, they serve coffee with too much water. Do not trust an expresso or a cappucino from Japanese coffee shops. They are not good.

Name: Utano Youth Hostel (宇多野ユースホステル)
Address: 〒6168191京都市右京区太秦中山町29
Phone: 075-462-2288
http://yh-kyoto.or.jp/utano/ryokin.html 
総客室数 41室 定員170名
charge : domitory 3,300 yen, twin 4,000yen



For those who come here for honeymoon or expect something romanic, my advice is to stay in Miyako Hotel.
Look for a package deal of "Hotel and flight" to get a cheaper rate.
http://www.westinmiyako-kyoto.com/

Kyoto "Cultural Center" 2: Kyo-Yuzen (京友禅)

Kyo-Yuzen (京友禅) is a traditional dyed fabric which is made in Kyoto. “Indigo Blue” the translation of “Ai Iro (藍色) is a natural color extracted from a plant and the techniques were thought to be developed in Korea and Japan for hundreds years ago.
Nishimura-ya is one of a workshop where you can experience to learn a little bit of techniques and make your own handkerchief or T-shirt for souvenir.
We just dropped by to buy it for souvenir.




Further Information:
Name :有限会社 丸益西村屋
Access:〒604-8276 京都府京都市中京区小川通り御池南入る
TEL :075-211-3273 FAX:075-221-1967
Site :http://www.kyo-komachi.com/
http://www.kyo-komachi.com/koubou/english.html

10.9.10

Kyoto"Cultural Center"1: Tea Ceremony (茶会)

You can also say that Kyoto is Japan's cultural center. You can watch the Japanese traditiona theatre, such as "Kabuki (歌舞伎), Nou (能)and Geisha performance (芸者). In addition to it, there are a number of famouos handcrafts such as traditional clothing techniques, "Kyo Orimono (京織物), Kyo Yuzen (京友禅・染物)" and ceramics ( 陶磁器) etc. There is many places you can enjoy the Japanese Tea Ceremony(茶会).
For more than 1000 years, Uji tea producers (near Kyoto city) have provided exclusively tea to the capital. We went to one of prestageous Tea retailing shop to experience tea celemony. It is very interesting to learn a little bit of techniques to make "Maccha (抹茶)".







Further information on the shop and tea celemony
Name : Bikoen Tea shop: 宇治茶の美好園(びこうえん)
Address: 京都市下京区油小路通花屋町下る仏具屋町235
Access: not far from Kyoto Station, very close to Nishi Honganji temple
TEL: 075-371-1013
http://www.bikouen.com 

Kyoto "Historical Capital" 4: "Emperial Palace (京都御所)"

Emperial Palace (京都御所と仙洞御所)
Many foreign and Japanese tourists miss an opportunity to visit this magnificent Palace.
The tour takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and it starts certain hours. No Saturdays and Sundays. So, you can not just come and visit any time you want. And you need your passport and have to make an application advance. Therefore, many people miss the chance. However, you make a schedule ahead, no problem.
It really worth to see. The Japanese garden which you see in the Sendo Gosho (仙洞御所) is much larger than ones in any other temples. The palace buildings are magnificent. In addition, it is free. Futhermore, you can have a guide in Enlish. Please check the schedule in advance on the web site. If you visit together with Japanese friends, make sure that the number of Japanese should not be more than foreigners in your party. For example, 3 foreigners and 2 Japanese are acceptable. However, 1 foreigner and 2 Japanese are not acceptable. In this case, one of Japanese should wait outside.
Please check the conditions and schedulhttp://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/index.htmles on :

http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/index.html

Kyoto Gosho




Sendo Gosho with Japanese garden



Kyoto "Historical Capital" 3: Other Places

Kennin-ji Temple (建仁寺)
Kennin-ji Temple was one of my surprises. The entrance fee is 500 yen, the same price as Ginkaku-ji Temple.
The highlight is two remarkable paintings: One is "Fujin Raijin / The god of wind and the God of thunder"(風神雷神)" painted by a famous artist, Tawaraya Sotatsu in the Edo era. The other is "Dragon" drawn on the ceiling.




The other aspect which was more impressed and can be good value for money is that we can go inside and enjoy watching wonderful Japanese gardens.





Fushimi Inari Jinnja Shrine (伏見稲荷神社)
The Shrine itself is not particularly interesting. But the Torii passage through the hill gives romantic view to couple hikers. It is recommended to go there one hour before the sunset. You can enjoy walking through there in the daylight and after the dark.




8.9.10

Kyoto, Historical Capital 2: World Heritage

Since the emperor "Kamu Tenno" moved the country's capital in 794, Kyoto has been the capital and the emperor's residence for over 1000 years (till 1867). Now, there are a lot of temples and shrines which you can feel the history of this country. Atlthough a number of historical buildings and houses were burn down by a series of battles took place in Kyoto over the centuries, you may find them a lot to see. In 1994, the World Heritage status was granted to seventeen temples and shrines in Kyoto. Those are:

Kinkaku-ji Temple (金閣寺)

"Kinkaku-ji in snow, February 2006"


"With Linda and her husband, Tso Lin"

Built in 1397 by Shogun, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu during the "Muromachi Era, the second Samurai government" The temple is historical very important and a good example of Kitayama Culture". Unfortunately, you must watch it from the distance. The entrance of 400 yen is a little expensive.

Ginkaku-ji Temple (銀閣寺)


Built in 1482 by Shogun, Ashikaga Yoshimasa and he enjoyed the tea ceremony here. This temple is also important and the symbol of "Higashiyama Culture". For someone who has studied "Japanese history and culture" may be interested. It is also expensive. 500 yen for the entrance fee.


Shimogami Jinja Shrine (下鴨神社)
Free entrance except special exhibition. Very historical wooden buildings. Well I would say it is very good. It worths visiting before going some place where you are charged. If you go to visit more than 10 temples and shrines in six days, you may be bored. (That's what happened to my friend, Nuno.)




Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺)
One of the highly visited spot and it is also nice to walk around this area.


Nishi Honganji Temple (西本願寺)
This is also good place to visit. It is "free". There is also "air-conditioned" lounge with "free tea". It is good place to rest. Moreover, you can go inside the temple.



Toji Temple (東寺)
The Five-story pagoda is the symbol of Kyoto. It is nice but we did not go inside as I knew that we can not go into any building.



"Do not cross! This is what we do all the time, play with rules!"